? for primacolor users, blender pencil and baby oil/OMS

[monizcel]

If you are using the prismacolor blender pencil on your primacolored stamped images, can you dip the blender pencil in baby oil/OMS for better blending or do you have to use the blender pencil dry (blender to colored image only)?

I want a pencil/stump with a sharp tip for the small areas of images but the stumps get worn down fairly quickly and the blender pencil is an ideal solution if I can blend with the baby oil.

Thanks

[fionna51]

Because the blending pencil is for softening of the wax in the colors through friction, I don't think they are intended to be used with solvents. Don't know if anyone has tried it, however.

[Donnarie]

The Prismacolor blender pencil is just the wax base without any pigment. The solvent will dissolve the wax, so you wouldn't be able to keep a sharp point for very long, but there's no reason you couldn't dip it into the solvent. You can also dip the colored pencils into solvent to get localized areas of very vibrant color. Dipping the points won't harm your pencils (I do it all the time) so there's no reason not to play around a bit.

The colorless blender works best when you use it as your last layer over an area that's been covered fairly well with color. I use it most often to mix colors together rather than move them. In other words, I might put down a layer of yellow, then add some green shading, and then use the blender to mix the yellow and green and soften any edges. If you're looking to push color from the edges of an area to create a watercolor wash effect, the blender pencil probably isn't going to help much. But again, no reason not to play with it and see what you can do.

Hope that helps a bit!

[KatarinaM]

Why don't you just sharpen or sand your stump to get a nice sharp point?

[Julesiana]

I think perhaps you might be using stumps that are too soft. (I am able to keep a pretty good point on my stumps). Also, stumps of various sizes are helpful (small ones for smaller areas, obviously).

There are ones where you can see the layers of paper--and some that are hard to see (layers, that is). The tighter ones hold the point better.

BTW--I have found that sanding sponges (from the hardware store) the easiest to sand my stumps. I twist (in the direction of the wrapped paper) and pull toward myself at the same time.

I sure hope all of this information (and various opinions--LOL!) help you out!!

[vsbndr]

Hi,
Slight hijack here....
I can never seem to sand my stumps to get that nice sharp point again. Do you have any suggestions? I use the sandpaper on a stick that looks like a putty knife.
Thanks for your input.

[Julesiana]

Like I said in my post--the sanding sponges. They are a grey sponge block with black "paper" on it.

Here it is at Ace Hardware.

Hold the stump with the point away from you, twist with the direction of the paper, and pull toward you.

The twisting/pulling technique works with regular sandpaper--but leaves a little "burr" at the top (that I had to clip off). When I use the sponge, I don't get that. The sponge conforms to the shape of the stump.

Hope that helps a bit more.

[vsbndr]

Thanks Juliana,
I didn't see your first post until after I posted my inquiry. I'll try those sandpaper sponges. I don't seem to have much luck with the harder stumps. I can't seem to move the color around very easily, so I tend to use those softer stumps. Thanks for the info.

[lbirus]

Quote:

Originally Posted by vsbndr

Hi,
Slight hijack here....
I can never seem to sand my stumps to get that nice sharp point again. Do you have any suggestions? I use the sandpaper on a stick that looks like a putty knife.
Thanks for your input.

You can make sure you are using the blending stumps that say "Taiwan" (who knows if I spelled that right). There are two kinds. The ones that look like a paper wrapped around and around are not as sturdy as the light colored stumps that look similar but are more slender and are made of a "composite" of fibers. The second kind hold a point much longer and can be filed easily.