A: Masking fluid is a liquid latex medium that can dry to form a mask. It's especially handy if you have a detailed area of an image or painting that would be difficult to paint around, or if you're painting a large continuous wash of color. You brush the masking fluid (also called frisket) on to your paper or canvas where you want an area to remain untouched, then let it dry completely. Once it's dry, you can paint right over the area and the dried fluid will resist the paint. When you're ready to expose the masked area, you can remove the masking fluid by gently rubbing with your fingers or an eraser once the paper is dry. The masked areas will still be white, and you can paint them or leave them as highlights in the painting. My biggest problem with masking fluid is impatience... you really do need to let the mask dry completely before painting over it, and then let the overpainting dry completely before removing the mask.

A: If you're able to find a swatch of the colors online, you can use a color picker tool to determine the codes. A color picker senses the color of the pixel under your mouse pointer and can translate that color into a variety of codes that you can input as custom colors in your word processing program. The one I have is called ColorPix - it's a free download that's very simple to use.

A: My favorite trick has always been a light mist of water on the stamp after inking with dye ink or Versamagic chalk ink - that seems to help the ink lift off the stamp and soak into the paper. You can also use a stamp positioner like the MISTI to give an image several layers of ink for a more even impression. A foam pad under your cardstock gives a little cushion for your stamping, too.

A: I have a rotary cutter from Fiskars that has a perforating blade. An alternative can be found at a fabric store with the pattern making tools - it's a tool called a tracing wheel. It's also a rotary tool, with a toothed wheel which leaves a row of close perforations or piercings when rolled over paper.

A: What about a rectangular card based on the layout of the machine front? It could have a narrow panel across the top (with or without a message), a larger rectangular panel at the center with 3 small panels across it, and a long narrow panel at the bottom with your birthday message. On the 3 small panels, add small stamped or die cut images in the center and then partial images at top and bottom. The handle could be made with a strip of sturdy cardstock and a circle die cut; attaching it with a brad would allow it to pivot. Die cut coins would be cute coming out from behind the lower panel, too. I hope you'll share when you're finished!

A: They do! I love using Copics and watercolors together. If you're stamping, you'll want to make sure your ink is compatible with both mediums (hybrid or archival inks are great). I would recommend starting with the markers to create a saturated base of color. Since you'll probably be working on watercolor paper, be aware that this paper will soak in more ink than others. The smooth surface of hot press paper is nice for marker coloring too. When the ink is dry, you can add shading or background coloring on and/or around the image with watercolor pencils and blend out with a wet brush.