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Search the archive, three years of Inklings.
Ask the Artist
Our Artist in Residence, Dina Kowal, answers your questions
October 16, 2019
Q: Jan wants to know: "I've been trying to replicate the tutorial in the forums using the Black Magic technique.....black cardstock, white pigment ink...heat set with heat tool then color vigorously with colored pencils. I can't get it to "pop" on the paper like in the tutorial."
A: I'm guessing your issue is with the type of pencils you're using - for this technique you'll want an artist-grade, pigment-rich pencil. I've gotten the best results with Prismacolor Premier pencils - their white is especially bright. Hope that helps!
October 9, 2019
Q: Mamie wants to know: "Is there a material I can use to keep natural leaves soft?"
A: I remember using glycerin before, and I found these instructions online:
"Mix glycerin and water so that it is one part glycerin and two parts water. Pour the solution into a flat pan, place the leaves in the solution, and then put a weight on the leaves to keep them submerged. Keep the leaves submerged in the solution for 2-6 days. Dry the leaves gently with a paper towel."
"Mix glycerin and water so that it is one part glycerin and two parts water. Pour the solution into a flat pan, place the leaves in the solution, and then put a weight on the leaves to keep them submerged. Keep the leaves submerged in the solution for 2-6 days. Dry the leaves gently with a paper towel."
October 2, 2019
Q: Carolyn wants to know: "Is there something I can spray on to protect chalked images? One time I used hairspray and it seemed to work. I just wanted to know if there was a product for this purpose. "
A: One option is a workable fixative - it's "workable" because you can add more layers over the spray after it dries, and it will preserve what's already down. Another option is a matte spray sealant that's archival. Krylon is a brand I trust for fixatives (Workable Fixatif) and sealants (Matte Finish). Hairspray does hold chalks in place, but it might yellow over time.
September 25, 2019
Q: Ramona wants to know: "How do you dry emboss with a stencil?"
A: There are 2 ways you can dry emboss with stencils. If you just want to use one section of the stencil, you can dry emboss with it the old fashioned way, with a light pad (or a sunlit window) and stylus. Lay down the stencil on the light source, then place the paper or cardstock on top. Use a stylus to press the paper into the stencil openings just where you want the design to appear. If you want to emboss the full stencil design, you can use your die cutting machine. You'll need a silicone pad for this. Lay down the pad first, then the paper, with the stencil on top. Place a cutting pad over the sandwich (or shims as needed), and run it through your die cutting machine.
September 18, 2019
Q: Jen asks: "How can I get a splatter effect with heat embossing?"
A: I tried a couple of different ways that worked... I have a spray bottle filled with a 1:1 mixture of acrylic glaze and water (I used 3D Crystal Lacquer), and that worked well with results that were a little more raised. If you're working on paper that will allow for water to sit on the surface instead of absorbing quickly (like watercolor paper), water is a great medium. I tried it with a mister bottle, which gives a finer spread to the powder. My favorite results were from dipping my fingers into clean water and flicking the water onto watercolor paper. Larger water spots take a little longer to dry with the heat gun, so it's easy to overheat the powder - it takes a little practice, but it does work! It's a fun random effect for a metallic splatter, or with clear powder for an interesting resist (think snow or galaxy backgrounds!).
