A: Foils can be divided into heat-reactive and toner-reactive categories. Both kinds of foil can be used with a dry/tacky adhesive (liner tape, tape runner, hot glue, sticky embossing powder, label sheet, tacky-when-dry glue or medium, etc), so that's a great way to start with either foil and whatever adhesive you have on hand. Otherwise, heat-reactive foils (such as Spellbinders, Crafter's Companion, We R Memory Keepers brands) need a heated die and pressure to transfer. This generally requires a hot foiling machine/system, such as Spellbinders Glimmer, Gemini FoilPress, along with a die cutting machine (Foilpress requires Gemini/Jr.). Toner-reactive foils (like Deco Foil by Thermoweb, Minc/Heidi Swapp) need heat, pressure (laminator can be used), and a toner-based medium to stick to. This method is inexpensive and easy to personalize if you have access to a laser printer or copier. Think about what kind of foiling you'd like to do - the heat reactive foil requires a machine/system and the foiling plates, so you're limited to those designs, but the plates can be used for embossing and letterpress effects, can be inked, etc. Toner-reactive foils can be used with laser printed text and images and can be customized forever, but the results are less dimensional.

A: For those who don't know, Pearl Ex™ powders are powdered pigments made from mica. They can be used for metallic or pearlescent effects. They can be brushed onto a sticky medium (tacky-when-dry glues, embossing inks, adhesive tapes, polymer clay), and can be mixed with a medium or binder for wet application (try acrylic paints, alcohol inks, glues, gels, varnishes, wax, gum arabic, embossing powders, etc.). Check our tutorial section for a variety of techniques! Here are a few to get you started:
Acetate & Tissue
Pearl Ex™ - Heated Pearls
Pearl Ex™- Painted Pearls
Poppin’ Pearls

A: I usually just tap the corner of the ink pad onto an acrylic block or craft sheet to get some ink down (dye or Distress inks are great for this technique), and then use a wet paintbrush to lift the ink. You can vary the amount of water in the brush to change the intensity of the color, mix colors together, and so much more! I've got a full tutorial with lots of tips and tricks HERE.

A: Sometimes! I cut apart anything that's nesting so each die can cut its own outline. I often leave other dies together, especially if they're tiny, so little pieces don't get lost. I often cut a bunch of coordinating pieces at once out of watercolor paper - if they're connected, they're easier to place and put away.

A: Of course! For ease of measurement, the finished card is 6" x 4.5" and I cut the base to 4.5" x 12". In step 1 of the tutorial, cut from 1" to 7". In steps 2 and 3, score at 1", 2", and 7". In step 4 score at 6". The rest of the instructions are the same.