Splitcoaststampers.com - the world's #1 papercrafting community
You're currently viewing Splitcoaststampers as a GUEST. We pride ourselves on being great hosts, but guests have limited access to some of our incredible artwork, our lively forums and other super cool features of the site! You can join our incredible papercrafting community at NO COST. So what are you waiting for?
Tin box Modge Podge application mess. Please advise!
I am making my first altered tin box. I read the tutorial here (excellent with good photos) and several other instruction posts here and on various blogs before starting.
I want to paper the top as well as the front and around. I decided to do the top first because it is a flat surface. I spent about an hour working on cutting the paper to fit just right, with no edges hanging of the sides and not to close around the handles.
I applied the Mod Podge to the top and around the edge and neatly placed the paper on it. It looked perfect! It fir great and there were no bubbles. Then I applied the Mod Podge on top of the paper and it started wrinkling and bubbling. I was prepared with various tools to squeegee the bubbles and flatten it out but nothing worked, even squeegeeing from the center and pushing out toward the edges. Now it is drying like that. I can only hope it won't be too noticeable. I bought four tins to do, but I am going to stop the project now until I can get this problem worked out in case I waste all my materials.
Does anyone know a solution? Was I supposed to let it dry before putting the Mod Podge on top of the paper?
I'm using DCWV printed Spring Pack scrapbooking paper, not card stock. I am using the Provo tin box sold at Michael's. The lid opens on top.:confused:
Glad to hear you used modge podge...but....it might have been better to let it dry before applying the top layer. I was reluctant to use the modge because my only history with it was in decoupaging. I could get those bubbles out. !!! However, why don't you save yourself the trouble and use redliner tape? They also make sheets. But try to let the paper dry first.
Good luck...love those tins!
I hope that by now the wrinkles have all dried. You should let the layers dry a little between coats, but I think that eventually it should be ok. When I am covering tins I generally use mod podge, I "paint" the can, then the back side of the paper, this allows it to slip around so that I can move the paper to the exact spot I want it to be. When it doesn't move any longer I then apply a coat to the top, even though it was smooth before the top coat went on it now wrinkles up. Very scary, but I have never had it not smooth back out on it's own. Patience is the key word here.
Yea, I have a very hard time with Modge Podge, too. I always have those annoying brush marks, no matter what brush or sponge applicator I use on it. And the bubbles...don't get me started!
I'm so glad I read this thread. I wanted to make one of these tins for my daughter's birthday this May, but I've never had much success with modge podge on metal. I'll buy the tin at Michael's this weekend and the Red Line Tape and make her one. Thanks guy's!
Michelle NH,
I just took a peek at your tin. It's beautiful, and yes, I love your choice of colors.
I'm so glad I read this thread. I wanted to make one of these tins for my daughter's birthday this May, but I've never had much success with modge podge on metal. I'll buy the tin at Michael's this weekend and the Red Line Tape and make her one. Thanks guy's!
Michelle NH,
I just took a peek at your tin. It's beautiful, and yes, I love your choice of colors.
There is also a thread about this in the General Scrapbooking area. It also has several relies that were helpful to me. I suggest you go and read the thread to get the input from experienced people who have done these tins. It may make your project more enjoyable to do. Also, if you go to the tutorial, you'll find a very good template there that will make cutting the notch for the clasp very easy. The template for the top is very useful, too. I found that I had to tweak it to fit my lid just right, but it was still very helpful.
Have you tried using Plaid Royal Coat Decoupage Medium...instead of Mod Podge...Same company makes it...but Mod podge is glue based and Royal coat is sealant based...makes a difference...Also...when I work with tin, wood, and even terra cotta surfaces...and decoupage type effects...You can moisten your paper with warm water...then dry it by placing between towels...apply a thin layer of Royal coat to your surface, place your moistened now, because you have dried the excess water off...onto the coated surface, with a smooth glazing type brush, not a sponge brush, smooth out the paper working from the center to the edges all around the piece...then let it dry completely....then you can go back and seal the top...but do it with a thin layer or coating applied very quickly..dont overwork the area or you will weaken the paper...I have some terra cotta and even paper mache boxes I did years ago...that still look great...I used to do samples of the wood furniture for Michaels and AC Moore stores in my area this way...hugs, Debbie