Splitcoaststampers.com - the world's #1 papercrafting community
You're currently viewing Splitcoaststampers as a GUEST. We pride ourselves on being great hosts, but guests have limited access to some of our incredible artwork, our lively forums and other super cool features of the site! You can join our incredible papercrafting community at NO COST. So what are you waiting for?
I have been looking into this issue lately, as I am concerned with the problem of photopolymer stamps reacting to acetate. I realize some companies use acetate to package their stamps while some don't. I have been keeping them in the original plastic sheets and then putting the set in plastic sleeves (organizing vertically). Without trying to figure out which companies do what, I am considering moving them to a non-acetate plastic sheet. The easiest way I thought to do this was to simply take the original sheet that has the images stamped on it and cold laminate it, then cut a piece Duralar that goes over the other side of the stamps. Does anyone know what brand of cold laminating pouches are stamp friendly? I have Scotch brand and will be calling or emailing to ask them.
Years ago when clear stamps first came around, I had bought a couple of sets, but then did not stamp much for a number of years. Fast forward to a couple of years ago when I came back into the stamping world, I found a few of those clear stamps did in fact melt to the plastic sheet. Back then, I wouldn't have know the difference between photopolymer and acrylic stamps, quality, etc. so when I discovered the damage, I thought it was either because they were poor quality (which they were cheap) or I didn't store them properly. Now I wonder if it was a reaction with the acetate.
It probably was a reaction with the carrier sheet. This older thread has a TON of information and most of it is still relevant: Going crazy with clear stamp storage
Agree this can be a problem. I've had one stamp set, unfortunately can't remember the brand, sorry, that welded itself to the backing. The trouble is, one sheet of clear plastic looks much like another, and you have to rely on the seller actually knowing what it is. I can't speak for cold laminating pouches, but I can say that I've been using hot laminating sheets to make my own storage sheets for 10+ years, and they have all been fine. If you can't get a reliable answer, or it turns out not to be ok, any cheap heat laminator will do the job, you can get them around $20, so might be a worthwhile investment. Pouches can be bought quite cheaply too.
I used to contact stamp companies to ask what the carrier sheets were made from. Their responses seemed forthcoming and honest - some openly saying acetate. So I’d put those stamps on Dura-Lar Grafix instead.
Then one day I decided no one is going to care about these in 20 years, and I’d been given stamps from a big pass-along swap box (when Studio Calico had a forum), some that were extremely old, and while a handful were yellowed, all were fine except maybe one set. So I stopped.
Direct sun doesn’t shine on the stamps and shades are shut when I’m not in the craft room - and often when I am. Stamps are in pockets in bins anyway. Out of my hundreds of sets, there are only a few I’d feel terrible about if lost or damaged, and those were put on Dura-Lar early on.
But I can understand wanting to deep-six the acetate. This is what I have, and when I’ve unmounted rubber from wood sometimes I still use it:
I read thru the info on the thread shared above and decided if I’m going to invest in stamps again, I don’t want them rotting away. So, I searched for the Grafix Dura-Lar cause I always need to find the best price for stuff. I found this https://www.dickblick.com/items/55506-1000/ No promises that it is the best price, but that’s what I found.
I’m not sure I’ll ever use 100 sheets, but with converting my wood block sets, I might.
If I was converting wood block stamps I’d absolutely use Dura-Lar Grafix too. It’s not like it’s even any extra work, so why not go with the good stuff when starting from scratch.
My sense is that sun is an enemy to focus on, but I’m not a scientist. Some companies do suggest not putting stamps in direct sunlight though.
And what I wrote goes for photopolymer stamps, and quality of photopolymer has improved since early days. All bets are off for acrylic or extremely cheap stamps though.
Agree this can be a problem. I've had one stamp set, unfortunately can't remember the brand, sorry, that welded itself to the backing. The trouble is, one sheet of clear plastic looks much like another, and you have to rely on the seller actually knowing what it is. I can't speak for cold laminating pouches, but I can say that I've been using hot laminating sheets to make my own storage sheets for 10+ years, and they have all been fine. If you can't get a reliable answer, or it turns out not to be ok, any cheap heat laminator will do the job, you can get them around $20, so might be a worthwhile investment. Pouches can be bought quite cheaply too.
Thanks. I do have a small laminator, so I could at least start changing over small stamp sets until I get a larger one.
I like this idea! I might be able to get my hands on a few from some old marketing and promotional materials at the office LOL - In hopefully good condition.
Thanks for all the info and links to check out. When you use Dura Lar or something like it, do you prefer to stamp the image on the Dura Lar with Staz on or just leave it a blank sheet? I feel like I would need the images.
Thanks for all the info and links to check out. When you use Dura Lar or something like it, do you prefer to stamp the image on the Dura Lar with Staz on or just leave it a blank sheet? I feel like I would need the images.
I want to have the images, too. I’m thinking I might take the image sheet that came with the stamps and adhere that to the dura-lar sheet... or stamp the images on a half sheet of cheap card stock and adhere that to the dura-lar... or stamp the images with StazOn like you mentioned. I’m sure I’ll change my mind multiple times while I’m waiting for my order of dura-lar to arrive
Thanks for all the info and links to check out. When you use Dura Lar or something like it, do you prefer to stamp the image on the Dura Lar with Staz on or just leave it a blank sheet? I feel like I would need the images.
I rearrange and purge and acquire stamps all the time, so I leave the carrier sheets (laminated cardstock for me) blank. If I think I need the images (usually the sentiments), I will stamp a piece of cardstock the same size as the carrier sheet and slip it into the same pocket. That way, if things change, I don't have to laminate new sheets.
Thanks for all the info and links to check out. When you use Dura Lar or something like it, do you prefer to stamp the image on the Dura Lar with Staz on or just leave it a blank sheet? I feel like I would need the images.
Same as Sue - leave the Dura-Lar (or in Sue’s case laminated sheet) blank, and stamp images on cardstock. (Sometimes I stamp certain images on a second piece of cardstock and insert it in a different bin section, noting the section the set is in. I just did that with the last of my wood blocks I unmounted. I didn’t have many wood stamps though.)
I used to tape the original carrier sheet to the Dura-Lar so the stamps only touched the Dura-Lar, not the original sheet.
I want to have the images, too. I’m thinking I might take the image sheet that came with the stamps and adhere that to the dura-lar sheet... or stamp the images on a half sheet of cheap card stock and adhere that to the dura-lar... or stamp the images with StazOn like you mentioned. I’m sure I’ll change my mind multiple times while I’m waiting for my order of dura-lar to arrive
Please don't use Staz-on on photopolymer stamps, nor it's cleaner. Many companies advise not to use it, as over time it will damage the stamps. I can vouch for this, as I have at least two I used it on maybe 10 or so years ago. Back before we were told to avoid it. These have gone soft and sticky, and one has torn. It's not an instant thing, but it's a definite no-no for clear stamps, but fine on real rubber.
I found out from Scotch/3M that the cold laminating pouches do not "intentionally" contain acetate. One side is polyester and the other is either polypropelene or polyethylene (can't recall which, but I think both safe?). In using the term "intentionally" I guess that leaves a margin of error in case some acetate accidentally falls into the non-acetate vat LOL.